Chicken Saltimbocca and Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune "Clos de la Mousse"

One of my all time favorite dishes is Chicken Saltimbocca, elegant as it is simple and delicious it is a perfect dish for a intimate dinner party.

Chicken Saltimbocca Every time I make this dish I wonder why I don't make it more often. Hands downs one of the best returns on investment of almost any recipe I have in my repertoire. Heady with scents of sage and savory prosciutto, at once homey and elegant.  Ingredients: 4 boneless, skinless chicken cutlets fine sea salt ground black pepper 8 thin slices prosciutto 8 sage leaves, more for garnish 3/4 cup flour 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup chicken broth 1 tbl Shallot, minced 8 oz pasta 3 Tbl Italian parsley, Chopped 2 Tbl Butter Parmigiano-Reggiano Salt and pepper Asparagus, blanched    Printable Recipe and Instructions When it comes to pairing saltimbocca, a traditional white from Northern Italy would work well- Pinot Grigio, Soave or Orvieto or a northern Red - Dolcetto, Barbera or Nebbiolo. But my favorite pairing with this dish is a nice red burgundy the simplicity of the dish allows the complexity of the burgundy to shine. And nothing says I love more than Cru Burgundy.  All burgundy is not created equal. Most burgundy is made by and for négociant houses from many individually owned parcels, cut and pasted together to make collage wines, many delicious and some profound. There are a relatively few monopole wines from burgundy. A monopole ("monopoly" in French) is an area controlled by a single winery usually a single vineyard. The Clos de la Mousse is a walled Premier Cru climat vineyard just outside the town of Beaune itself located toward Pommard where the soils are very shallow, around 25mm deep. The vines here are planted north to south rather than the orthodox east to west. To quote Robert Parker about Bouchard, "This is one of the wealthiest firms in France, as well as the largest landowner of premier and grand crus in Burgundy. Paul Bouchard and his son Jean-Francois continue to turn out their finest wines since the forties and fifties. The wines are deeper-colored and noticeably more concentrated."   I had the opportunity to taste this wine with Luc Bouchard, 3 months before release. The wine is medium bodied, vibrant, balanced with plenty of stuffing for the long haul. Scented with citrus zest and layers of red fruit, lithe and elegant alive and fine. 2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune "Clos de la Mousse"  $56.99  "A pure, elegant and airy nose features wisps of both red and dark pinot fruit along with subtle earth notes that are set off by relatively generous wood. There is excellent concentration and intensity to the middle weight plus flavors that possess excellent power and drive, all wrapped in a serious, balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This is a big Beaune with solid minerality and phenolic maturity and one to consider." 92 Pts Allen Meadows, Burghound   92 Tanzer 91 Advocate 91 pts Wine & Spirits "Years Best Buy"

Slow New York Steak and Garlic Shrimp with Rose Champagne

There are plenty of romantic dinners for two that you can cook - Rack of Lamb, Seafood Fettuccine, Osso Buco, or maybe Beef Wellington.  Some heed the words of Omar Khayyam and make do with simple plates of cheese, salumi, "a Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread--and Thou..."  But what about good ol' fashioned Surf and Turf? Steak and Lobster, Tenderloin and Scallops, Rib Eye and Shrimp - creamy mashed potatoes, green beans add a simple salad and you have a great little dinner for two without much stress. Oh, and don't forget the oysters on the half shell. What to drink? Well you could go with a nice Pinot Noir, either Bourgogne or Willamette. But for me, Rosé Champagne is the finest answer here. A good quality Rosé Sparkling made with a good helping Pinot Noir is just about as perfect as perfect gets. There are many great sparkling Rose available, Treveri Rosé ($16.99) 90 WS which is a great local option. Argyle Brut Rosé 2010 ($43.99) 91 WS or Scharffenberger Brut Rosé ($22.99) 90 WS. But, a special night with special someone...you need something special.

Champagne Duval Leroy Brut Rosé $51.99 Duval-Leroy is one of favorite Champagne houses. Large enough o produce consistent quality wines, yet small enough to make wines that express of place and personality. "With a fine bead and delicate, mouthwatering acidity, this is a subtle, balanced rosé, offering a smoky, mineral-tinged base note and hints of pastry dough, dried cherry, wild strawberry and grapefruit zest." 92 Points Wine Spectator The house of Duval-Leroy has been a family owned business since 1859, since Edouard Leroy, a wine trader from the town of Villers-Franqueux, formed a partnership with Jules Duval, a grape-grower and winemaker from Vertus. The two families joined together, not just in business, when a wedding, between Jules's son, Henri, and Edouard's daughter, Louise Eugénie consummated the partnership. The house is one of the largest independent landholders in Champagne with almost 500 acres planted to vines. Today, the company is overseen by Carol Duval-Leroy with wine production headed by Sandrine Logette-Jardin.  Champagne and red meat? Pinot Noir is the varietal that drives the pairing here, Rosé Champagne is still substantial enough to hold up to the steak with the effervescence helping to cut through the fat and of course playing well with the shrimp. A little lower alcohol helps; higher acidity is important and makes sparkling a perfect default wine, when in doubt? Drink Champagne!  Slow NY Steak with Garlic Shrimp  This method is a surefire way to make a perfect steak. Using a thicker cut of steak we are going to start in the oven and finish on the stove top. While the steak is resting we will whip up the shrimp in a garlic butter sauce. Served with a nice bottle of bubbles and voila!  INGREDIENTS: *Instant Read Thermometer, Cast Iron Pan 1 ½ lb - 2 lb Steak, NY or Rib Eye (1 ½" to 2" thick) kosher salt fresh ground pepper 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves ***** Shrimp and butter Sauce Olive oil 6  Ounces Shrimp, peeled de-veined 1  tsp Red Pepper Flakes 1 Tblsp Fresh Garlic chopped 1 ounce Dry Sherry 1 Tsp Sherry Vinegar 1 tsp fresh Tarragon Salt to taste ½ Cup Tomato Diced 2 Tblsp Butter  Printable Recipe and Instructions

We hope you enjoy the recipe and find time to share some food and wine with some friends and loved ones.

Smoked Chicken Salad and NW Wine Academy Barrel Fermented Chardonnay

There are many misunderstood and maligned grapes out in the world of wine – Gewürztraminer, Gamay and Riesling are a few that come to mind. But no wine has suffered the slings and arrows as much as Chardonnay. I feel that many people blame the grape, when the problem is mass produced overly oaked (read oak chips and dust) wines that flooded the market many years ago. Chardonnay is the grape of Mersault and Montrachet, the great grape of burgundy and it makes some of the most profound wine all around the world.

Today, I have pleasure of presenting the Northwest Wine Academy at South Seattle College 2013 Chardonnay. (Full disclosure I am an instructor at the school, so yes I am biased.) The Northwest Wine Academy is the only college level program offering professional wine courses in the Puget Sound Region. The school offers a two year Associate of Arts degrees in Viticulture and Enology, as well as Degrees in Food and Wine Pairing, Winemaking, and Wine Marketing and Sales.

The 2013 Chardonnay was sourced from Wyckoff Vineyard and fermented in new French Oak barrels with partial malolactic fermentation and stirred on the lees for three months. Complex, with just a hint of oak, the wine reveals bright, fruit-forward aromas – melon, lemon, and pear. It delivers notes of spice, sea salt, and minerality with a creamy mouth feel. This is an excellent example of the potential of Chardonnay in Washington State. The Schools Chardonnay has received Gold and Double Gold Medals from the Seattle Wine Awards in years past.

This wine would be an excellent choice with double cream cheese, like Delice de Bourgogne or Kurtwood Farms Dinah’s. The toasty oak makes this wine a perfect pair for roasted, grilled, smoked  birds like chicken and turkey.  This wine pairs with a range of dishes from lighter salads to seafood and cream sauces.

Now, I am pairing this with a Smoked Chicken and Hazelnut Salad with pears and Mesclun greens.

Why this pairing works: The Toasted hazelnuts echo the toast of the new French barrel, the pears echo a note of pear in the wine, the body and weight of the two are balanced. The chardonnay makes for a lovely bridge with fresh acidity and a delicate minerality that is balanced by a creamy finish.

 

Smoked Chicken and Hazelnut Salad

Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 each Smoked Chicken 2-2 ½ lb

2 each Ripe pears

1Pound Mixed Greens

4 ounce Roasted Hazelnuts

4-6 ounces Hazelnut dressing

1 each yellow pepper, Julienne

**********Vinaigrette

¼ Cup Cider Vinegar

1 each shallot minced

2 tsp Honey

1 tsp Dijon Mustard

¾ cup Olive Oil

¼ cup Hazelnut Oil

1 Tbl Tarragon chopped

Salt and pepper

1.     In bowl combine all ingredients for dressing and mix well

2.     for salad de-bone chicken and shred into little strips. Set aside

3.     roast hazelnuts in warm 275 – 300 degree oven for 7- 10 minutes

4.     slice pears and put into large bowl add greens and dressing

5.     toss salad

6.     garnish with chicken and hazelnuts

Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Torte

I have one chocolate recipe that is as surefire as it is delicious - Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Torte. Infused with raspberry and a little port baked in a water bath, simply covered with chocolate Ganache and served with raspberry puree is about good as it gets. Chocolate Raspberry Truffle Torte Ingredients: 1 lb Butter unsalted ½ Cup Sugar ½ Cup Coffee ½ Cup Port, Banyuls or Maury ½ Cup Raspberry Puree (Raspberry jam) 1 lb Bittersweet Chocolate, chopped 8 ea Eggs ****Ganache 1 Cup heavy cream 8 oz Bittersweet Chocolate, chopped 1 tbl Butter Printable Recipe and Instructions

A nice Ruby Port would be a classic pairing for a dish like this - Kopke or Porto Rocha would be great. However, another lesser known category of sweet wines from the south of France in Banyuls and Maury are a great alternative. Made from Grenache in a method similar to Port, they have their own unique characteristics.    Banyuls and Maury come from the region of Rousillon, in the Southern most corner of France on the Mediterranean coast against the Pyrenees. It is French Catalan country, mountainous with Spanish influence. The wines made here are based on Grenache and Mouvedre. What makes Banyuls and Maury unique is the "muté sur grains" or "mutage" method used to produce these wines. "Muté sur grains" means "muted or halted on the grapes." This is because in this method, during the fermentation of very ripe grapes, distilled grape alcohol is added which kills the yeast and stops the fermentation prematurely. This leaves the wine naturally sweet from the sugar, with a higher alcohol percentage per volume.  This is the same method as used in Porto, but here the wines are lower in alcohol, averaging 15%, high for table wine but lower than Port. What results from this method is fresh fruit, slightly higher alcohol, and richness of residual sugar along with concentrated taste. 2010 Vignobles d'Agly Maury VDN $15.99   Black raspberry preserves mingle with coffee, mint, and licorice on a velvet palate with fine tannins; hints of crushed stone, as well as touch of tartness with dried berry and mocha of a lingering finish. Maury is an excellent option for desert, but I have to tell you that I have seen Maury paired successfully with everything from strong cheeses to barbecue ribs.

Spanish Scented Lamb Skewers and Principe de Viana Graciano 2013

Tempranillo is the classic grape of Spain and arguably the noblest of Spain’s varietals. In Rioja as well as elsewhere Tempranillo is blended with other grapes – Garnacha, Mazuelo – for example. But many of best wines are blended with Graciano. The Wine Spectators #1 wine last year CVNE Gran Reserva 2005 is a slightly different blend than there other offerings, with a good splash of Graciano. Bodegas LAN Culmen the Spectators Highest rated Rioja of recent years is made with 15% Graciano.  2004 Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza Gran Reserva which Parker gave a 100 point score is graced with 10% Graciano. Is Graciano the secret ingredient to making legendary Rioja? What is Graciano anyway?

We know Garnacha, known as Grenache in France and the key to great Chateaunuef-du-pape and Mazuelo is also known as Carignane with is famous in Priorat and the south of France. Graciano is thought to be native to Rioja, where it is used to provide color and aroma to blended Rioja red wines. Oz Clarke compares Graciano to how Petit Verdot is used in Bordeaux, giving the wines especially Gran Reservas in Rioja and Navarra, their structure and aging potential.  

With Less than 1% of the vineyard plantings given to Graciano one might think it has been relegated to blending grape because it is an inferior grape. Oz Clarke says that it is "far and away the most interesting red vine in Rioja," and Jancis Robinson writes "it is to the Riojanos' shame that so little Graciano survives in their vineyards today.” Why then is so little planted? Graciano is notoriously low-yielding and susceptible to powdery mildew and rot, which means it needs more attention in the vineyards. From a business standpoint it totally makes sense, especially when Spain’s wines weren’t held in as high regard nor could they command higher prices.

The Spanish wine renaissance of the last twenty years has not only provided Spanish winemakers with economic incentive to produce better more interesting wines, it has also given them the economic wherewithal to tend to these persnickety yet delicious grapes. The Spanish government has even identified Graciano’s unique qualities and has helped to subsidized research and planting of this ancient varietal.

Principe de Viana Roble Graciano 2013 $13.99

Bodegas Príncipe de Viana was created in 1983 as part of a sustainable farming development project. Over 2000 acres are managed on a chalky-stony plateau at the confluence of the Aragón and Ebro River. Here adjacent to a national park where high mountain winds blow through the vineyards at the intersection of Atlantic, Mediterranean and Continental climates grow meticulously cared for Graciano Vines.

"Deep ruby.  Lively, expressive aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerals and subtle oak spices.  Smooth and silky on the palate, offering good focus to its vivid flavors of fresh cherry and cassis.  Spicy, lively and taut on the finish, framed by supple tannins. "

Remarkable deft on the palette this wine calls out for traditional Spanish Fare. When I think of Navarra and Rioja I think Lamb. The wines balance of deep intensity and bright flavors play well with lamb.

 Spanish Spiced Lamb Skewers with Romesco

Serves 4 – 6

Ingredients:

2 lbs Boneless Lamb Leg, cut into 1inch cubes

1 Tbl red wine vinegar

1 Tbl Olive Oil

4 cloves Garlic, minced

1 Tbl Spanish Paprika, Pimenton de la Vera

1 tsp Cinnamon

2 tsp Cumin (ground)

2 tsp Salt

2 tsp Black Pepper

1 tsp Oregano

1 Sweet Red Pepper

1 Yellow Pepper

Lemon wedges for serving

Dozen Bamboo Skewers

1.      Trim lamb of excess fat and silver skin. And cut into 1 inch cubes

2.      In a bowl combine lamb, vinegar, oil, garlic and spices. Let marinate at least  one hour.

3.      Soak bamboo skewers in water to prevent burning.

4.      Cut peppers into 1 inch squares. Slide peppers and lamb onto skewers, alternating pepper and lamb.

5.      Pre heat grill. Grill lamb 8 -9 minutes turning every 2 -3 minutes.

6.      Remove from grill to platter and tent with foil and let rest for 5 minutes

Serve with rice or roasted potatoes, a squeeze of lemon and Romesco sauce  

Romesco Sauce

2 Each Red pepper roasted

2Tblsp Tomato Paste

1 Tblsp Pimento de la Vera

1Tsp    Cayenne pepper

1 Slice Bread

½ Cup Almonds Roasted

2 Tsp   Sherry Vinegar

1 each Lemon- Juice and Zest

3 Tblsp Parsley Chopped

4 Clove Garlic

2 cup   Olive Oil

1.         Combine almonds, roasted Peppers, Garlic and tomato Paste in bowl of Cuisinart pulse until thick paste forms

2.         Add juice and zest of lemon, sherry vinegar, Parsley, salt and spices. Pulse until combined

3.         With motor running break bread into small pieces and add to mixture one at a time

4.         With motor running add olive oil in a slow steady stream

Moroccan Red Chicken and Lafage Bastide Miraflors

January, is a time for resolutions, snuggling up with a good book, intimate dinners with good friends. January is a time for hearty simple food and banging country wine. Vin de Pays in French, wines that are step better than vin ordinaire but still from somewhere, taste of a place, have terroir. VDP or IGP or as the go by now - Indication Géographique Protégée, or Protected Geographical Region - designation, are wines that were once seen as inferior to the AOC wines, but in the last 20 years many winemakers are purposely making wines outside the AOC (AOP) with spectacular results.

 Cotes Catalanes is one of the most important IGPs in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France, covering the Pyrenees-Orientales department on the border with Spain. One of the oldest viticultural areas of France, vines in the Roussillon were first cultivated by the Phoenicians and later by the Romans. With some of the most dramatic topography in France, with garrigue-covered steep hills and a hot, dry climate and poor, dry soils - resembling the Priorat in Spain in many ways.

 Here young winemakers like Jean-Marc Lafage are making new wines with very old grapes. Jean-Marc Lafage is one of our favorite winemakers (Period). And if you shop at Esquin, most likely he is one of yours too. He makes some our favorite wine in Spain, France and even South America - Evodia, Tessellae Vieilles Vignes, Novellum Chardonnay ,Las Rochas Garnacha to name a few. However, his best work is perhaps at home at his estate in the hills of the Roussillon with his wife, Eliane. Although only in his thirties, Jean-Marc Lafage already has almost 20 years of world-class wine making behind him.

2012 Domaine Lafage Bastide Miraflors Vieilles Vignes $13.99   The Miraflors is a blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache that spent one year in 80% concrete tank (Grenache) and 500-liter demi-muids (Syrah). From a Roussillon vineyard dominated by gallets roules that resembles many Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards, the wine undergoes a long maceration of six weeks. Yields are amazingly low for wines at this price level. The wines are bottled unfiltered. "Notes of violets, forest floor, black cherry jam and blackberries make an appearance in this medium-bodied, high-toned, dense, rich, complex, well-delineated red wine. Drink it over the next several years." -91 points Robert Parker Wine Advocate One would normally think such a superb, remarkable wine would cost over $50 a bottle, but this beauty is available for an astonishing $14 a bottle. You'll have to taste it to believe it!

Moroccan Red Chicken and Couscous Now back to that stew. In the eighth century the Roussillon was over-run by Moors and became Moorish Septimania an outpost of al-Andalus. If you travel there you can see the Arab influence in architecture and even place names for example names such as Castelmaur (Castle of the Moors) and Castelsarrasin (Castle of the Saracens) and the medical school at Montpellier. In Roussillon, you are just likely to find Couscous as you are baguette.   One of my favorite dishes is Morrocan Red Chicken and a perfect winter warmer that is as easy to make as it is soul satisfying. The blend of pepper and spice makes for a rich enticing dish that is not too piquant but will still spice up your evening meal.  Moroccan Red Chicken 6       oz               Butter 4       Lb               Chicken, Thigh and leg meat, boneless skinless 4       each            Onions, Large dice 2       each            eggplant 1       tbl               Salt 3       each            Sweet Red Pepper 4       ounces       Sherry 1       32oz           Tomatoes, canned ********* SPICE MARINADE: 1       tsp              black Pepper 1       tsp              Chile Flakes 1       Tbl             Hungarian Paprika 1       Tbl             Pimento de la Vera 2       Tbl             Chile Powder 1       tsp              Cumin 1       tsp              Cinnamon ********* TO FINISH ¼      Cup            Cilantro, Chopped fresh 1.5    oz               Sherry Vinegar 1.5    oz               Honey 1.    Separate chicken into pieces add spices 2.    Cut eggplant into 1” cubes and purge with salt 3.    In large pot melt butter add onions and peppers 4.    Add chicken brown stirring occasionally 5.    Deglaze with sherry 6.    Add eggplant and tomatoes bring to boil 7.    Place pot into 375 degree oven for 30 – 40 minutes 8.    Finish with mixture of honey and vinegar together 9.    Garnish with cilantro Serve with couscous and preserved lemon Printable Recipe

asparagus Risotto recipe