Spanish Scented Lamb Skewers and Principe de Viana Graciano 2013

Tempranillo is the classic grape of Spain and arguably the noblest of Spain’s varietals. In Rioja as well as elsewhere Tempranillo is blended with other grapes – Garnacha, Mazuelo – for example. But many of best wines are blended with Graciano. The Wine Spectators #1 wine last year CVNE Gran Reserva 2005 is a slightly different blend than there other offerings, with a good splash of Graciano. Bodegas LAN Culmen the Spectators Highest rated Rioja of recent years is made with 15% Graciano.  2004 Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza Gran Reserva which Parker gave a 100 point score is graced with 10% Graciano. Is Graciano the secret ingredient to making legendary Rioja? What is Graciano anyway?

We know Garnacha, known as Grenache in France and the key to great Chateaunuef-du-pape and Mazuelo is also known as Carignane with is famous in Priorat and the south of France. Graciano is thought to be native to Rioja, where it is used to provide color and aroma to blended Rioja red wines. Oz Clarke compares Graciano to how Petit Verdot is used in Bordeaux, giving the wines especially Gran Reservas in Rioja and Navarra, their structure and aging potential.  

With Less than 1% of the vineyard plantings given to Graciano one might think it has been relegated to blending grape because it is an inferior grape. Oz Clarke says that it is "far and away the most interesting red vine in Rioja," and Jancis Robinson writes "it is to the Riojanos' shame that so little Graciano survives in their vineyards today.” Why then is so little planted? Graciano is notoriously low-yielding and susceptible to powdery mildew and rot, which means it needs more attention in the vineyards. From a business standpoint it totally makes sense, especially when Spain’s wines weren’t held in as high regard nor could they command higher prices.

The Spanish wine renaissance of the last twenty years has not only provided Spanish winemakers with economic incentive to produce better more interesting wines, it has also given them the economic wherewithal to tend to these persnickety yet delicious grapes. The Spanish government has even identified Graciano’s unique qualities and has helped to subsidized research and planting of this ancient varietal.

Principe de Viana Roble Graciano 2013 $13.99

Bodegas Príncipe de Viana was created in 1983 as part of a sustainable farming development project. Over 2000 acres are managed on a chalky-stony plateau at the confluence of the Aragón and Ebro River. Here adjacent to a national park where high mountain winds blow through the vineyards at the intersection of Atlantic, Mediterranean and Continental climates grow meticulously cared for Graciano Vines.

"Deep ruby.  Lively, expressive aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerals and subtle oak spices.  Smooth and silky on the palate, offering good focus to its vivid flavors of fresh cherry and cassis.  Spicy, lively and taut on the finish, framed by supple tannins. "

Remarkable deft on the palette this wine calls out for traditional Spanish Fare. When I think of Navarra and Rioja I think Lamb. The wines balance of deep intensity and bright flavors play well with lamb.

 Spanish Spiced Lamb Skewers with Romesco

Serves 4 – 6

Ingredients:

2 lbs Boneless Lamb Leg, cut into 1inch cubes

1 Tbl red wine vinegar

1 Tbl Olive Oil

4 cloves Garlic, minced

1 Tbl Spanish Paprika, Pimenton de la Vera

1 tsp Cinnamon

2 tsp Cumin (ground)

2 tsp Salt

2 tsp Black Pepper

1 tsp Oregano

1 Sweet Red Pepper

1 Yellow Pepper

Lemon wedges for serving

Dozen Bamboo Skewers

1.      Trim lamb of excess fat and silver skin. And cut into 1 inch cubes

2.      In a bowl combine lamb, vinegar, oil, garlic and spices. Let marinate at least  one hour.

3.      Soak bamboo skewers in water to prevent burning.

4.      Cut peppers into 1 inch squares. Slide peppers and lamb onto skewers, alternating pepper and lamb.

5.      Pre heat grill. Grill lamb 8 -9 minutes turning every 2 -3 minutes.

6.      Remove from grill to platter and tent with foil and let rest for 5 minutes

Serve with rice or roasted potatoes, a squeeze of lemon and Romesco sauce  

Romesco Sauce

2 Each Red pepper roasted

2Tblsp Tomato Paste

1 Tblsp Pimento de la Vera

1Tsp    Cayenne pepper

1 Slice Bread

½ Cup Almonds Roasted

2 Tsp   Sherry Vinegar

1 each Lemon- Juice and Zest

3 Tblsp Parsley Chopped

4 Clove Garlic

2 cup   Olive Oil

1.         Combine almonds, roasted Peppers, Garlic and tomato Paste in bowl of Cuisinart pulse until thick paste forms

2.         Add juice and zest of lemon, sherry vinegar, Parsley, salt and spices. Pulse until combined

3.         With motor running break bread into small pieces and add to mixture one at a time

4.         With motor running add olive oil in a slow steady stream