Saturday, April 11, 2015

Chicken Cacciatorre and Schiavenza Dolcetto

Little Sweet One

Dolcetto is probably the most underrated grape in Piedmont. I think it might be the name that confuses people, Dolcetto literally translates to 'Little Sweet One', but the wines are known for tannin and bitterness. Dolcetto wines classically have black cherry and licorice, even pruney flavor, and that famously bitter finish reminiscent of almonds. Nearly always dry they can be fruity with moderate acid. Most Dolcetto is made to be easy and drunk young. The reason I love Dolcetto is that it is a very versatile wine for pairing; just enough structure to hold up to meat dishes and a softness that allows it play well with even with seafood like tuna or salmon.

In certain areas the grape can develop a remarkable depth of minerality and earthiness. One of those places is the Serralunga valley. With iron rich soils of limestone and sand the wines of the Serralunga tend to be more powerful, if not austere. Here Dolcetto takes on the tar and leather of a more 'serious' wine
Azienda Agricola Schiavenza di Pira Luciano is located in Serralunga, the heart of Piedmont's Langhe, founded in 1956 by the brothers Vittorio and Ugo Alessandria. Today, it is run by second generation sisters, Enrica and Maura. The sisters, (with the help of their husbands) continue the tradition of old school winemaking, no modern barrique, no steel, instead the wine is fermented with naturally occurring yeasts in cement cisterns and aged in the traditional large Slovenian botti. Their estate includes some of the best parcels in the Langhe split between Serralunga and Monforte D'Alba.
 
2013 Schiavenza Dolcetto D'Alba $14.99

Fresh and juicy, with amarena cherry and licorice this blackberry-infused red offers redolent fruit and light-grained tannins on the finish. The pleasant astringency works well with food.
Pollo alla Cacciatora


Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices. The Trattoria Cascina Schiavenza is within walking distance from the stately castle behind the village church. Mum Lucia and her daughter Maura prepare typical dishes of rich tradition of the Langhe in the kitchen.
Specialties include: vitello tonnato, Plin, Bagna Cauda, Bollito Misto, and a traditional Hunters style dish made with mushrooms, onions and herbs, cacciatore.

Cacciatore means "hunter" in Italian, alla cacciatora refers to a meal prepared "hunter-style" with mushrooms, onions, herbs and wine. Traditionally made with rabbit, coniglio alla cacciatora, today one is more likely to find it made with chicken, pollo alla cacciatora. Most modern recipes call for the addition of red peppers and tomato. Traditionalists with tell you this is incorrect, I'll tell you it is delicious. Paired with a nice Dolcetto the earthy mushrooms and tomato lift the wine and elevate the dish.
  Ingredients:
8 chicken thighs
1 tsp baking Powder
2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour, for dusting
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tbl Red pepper Flakes
1 large red bell pepper, diced
1 onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled  diced
1 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice
3/4 cup chicken broth
1 Tbl fresh Thyme
2 tbl fresh Parsley 
 
1.       Heat oven to 350 degrees
2.       Combine baking powder, salt, pepper and Flour. Pat dry thighs and dust with seasoned flour mixture shake off excess.
3.       In a large dutch oven heat olive oil over medium high heat
4.       Add chicken thighs one at a time, skin side down. Cook a few at a time, trying not to crowd the pot.  Cook until browned and skin begins to crisp.  Remove chicken thighs from pot.
5.       Add red pepper flakes, onion, red peppers and carrots. Sweat until nicely browned, add mushrooms and garlic, cook for a few minutes. Deglaze with white wine.
6.       Return chicken to pot and add chicken broth, thyme and tomatoes. Bring to simmer
7.       Roast in oven for 30 – 40 minutes until meat easily separates from bone.
8.       Add chopped parsley and serve with polenta or pasta

****Creamy Polenta
1 tbl Olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1 tsp Salt
1 tbl rosemary
1 ½ cup water
1 ½ cup Chicken broth
1 cup Polenta
¼ cup grated parmiggiano Reggiano
¼ cup Mascarpone

1.       Heat olive oil add garlic and red pepper flake. Add stock and water bring to a boil
2.       Stir in polenta add salt and rosemary. Stir continuously until cooked through about 10 minutes
3.       Add mascarpone and parmiggiano reggiano 

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