Saturday, April 11, 2015

Chicken Cacciatorre and Schiavenza Dolcetto

Little Sweet One

Dolcetto is probably the most underrated grape in Piedmont. I think it might be the name that confuses people, Dolcetto literally translates to 'Little Sweet One', but the wines are known for tannin and bitterness. Dolcetto wines classically have black cherry and licorice, even pruney flavor, and that famously bitter finish reminiscent of almonds. Nearly always dry they can be fruity with moderate acid. Most Dolcetto is made to be easy and drunk young. The reason I love Dolcetto is that it is a very versatile wine for pairing; just enough structure to hold up to meat dishes and a softness that allows it play well with even with seafood like tuna or salmon.

In certain areas the grape can develop a remarkable depth of minerality and earthiness. One of those places is the Serralunga valley. With iron rich soils of limestone and sand the wines of the Serralunga tend to be more powerful, if not austere. Here Dolcetto takes on the tar and leather of a more 'serious' wine
Azienda Agricola Schiavenza di Pira Luciano is located in Serralunga, the heart of Piedmont's Langhe, founded in 1956 by the brothers Vittorio and Ugo Alessandria. Today, it is run by second generation sisters, Enrica and Maura. The sisters, (with the help of their husbands) continue the tradition of old school winemaking, no modern barrique, no steel, instead the wine is fermented with naturally occurring yeasts in cement cisterns and aged in the traditional large Slovenian botti. Their estate includes some of the best parcels in the Langhe split between Serralunga and Monforte D'Alba.
 
2013 Schiavenza Dolcetto D'Alba $14.99

Fresh and juicy, with amarena cherry and licorice this blackberry-infused red offers redolent fruit and light-grained tannins on the finish. The pleasant astringency works well with food.
Pollo alla Cacciatora


Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices. The Trattoria Cascina Schiavenza is within walking distance from the stately castle behind the village church. Mum Lucia and her daughter Maura prepare typical dishes of rich tradition of the Langhe in the kitchen.
Specialties include: vitello tonnato, Plin, Bagna Cauda, Bollito Misto, and a traditional Hunters style dish made with mushrooms, onions and herbs, cacciatore.

Cacciatore means "hunter" in Italian, alla cacciatora refers to a meal prepared "hunter-style" with mushrooms, onions, herbs and wine. Traditionally made with rabbit, coniglio alla cacciatora, today one is more likely to find it made with chicken, pollo alla cacciatora. Most modern recipes call for the addition of red peppers and tomato. Traditionalists with tell you this is incorrect, I'll tell you it is delicious. Paired with a nice Dolcetto the earthy mushrooms and tomato lift the wine and elevate the dish.
  Ingredients:
8 chicken thighs
1 tsp baking Powder
2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 Tablespoons all-purpose flour, for dusting
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tbl Red pepper Flakes
1 large red bell pepper, diced
1 onion, diced
1 carrot, peeled  diced
1 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes with juice
3/4 cup chicken broth
1 Tbl fresh Thyme
2 tbl fresh Parsley 
 
1.       Heat oven to 350 degrees
2.       Combine baking powder, salt, pepper and Flour. Pat dry thighs and dust with seasoned flour mixture shake off excess.
3.       In a large dutch oven heat olive oil over medium high heat
4.       Add chicken thighs one at a time, skin side down. Cook a few at a time, trying not to crowd the pot.  Cook until browned and skin begins to crisp.  Remove chicken thighs from pot.
5.       Add red pepper flakes, onion, red peppers and carrots. Sweat until nicely browned, add mushrooms and garlic, cook for a few minutes. Deglaze with white wine.
6.       Return chicken to pot and add chicken broth, thyme and tomatoes. Bring to simmer
7.       Roast in oven for 30 – 40 minutes until meat easily separates from bone.
8.       Add chopped parsley and serve with polenta or pasta

****Creamy Polenta
1 tbl Olive oil
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tsp red pepper flakes
1 tsp Salt
1 tbl rosemary
1 ½ cup water
1 ½ cup Chicken broth
1 cup Polenta
¼ cup grated parmiggiano Reggiano
¼ cup Mascarpone

1.       Heat olive oil add garlic and red pepper flake. Add stock and water bring to a boil
2.       Stir in polenta add salt and rosemary. Stir continuously until cooked through about 10 minutes
3.       Add mascarpone and parmiggiano reggiano 

Saturday, April 4, 2015

Timballo al Agnello with saitn Joseph

Easter Brunch is one of my favorite things. I like to keep it casual and hopefully easy. This is where a little day before prep comes in handy. Some of my favorite dishes are a quiche or Tortilla, a nice tart, a savory Strata or even Chilaquiles. These are crowd pleasing dishes that can be made the day before and heated just before company or the Easter bunny arrives.

If you are looking to make a statement, I suggest something like a Timpano or Tmballo. If you saw the movie Big Night you know what I am talking about. Timpano, is the Italian word for drum. A timballo is a kerttle drum. As far as Recipes go the main difference is that a Timballo will have a crust or wrapping. Both consist of baked pasta, rice, or potatoes, usually with cheese, meat, fish and vegetables.
Timballo al Agnello

Here is a recipe I put together specifically for Easter. I wanted to do a lamb dish, so I started with a lamb ragu and added a little b?chamel to keep the filling together went a little Greek by scenting the dish with cinnamon and cumin.  Wrap the whole thing up in a savory crust seasoned with a pinch of curry and you have a cool center piece for your Easter table.
 

1 recipe Savory Pie Dough
**** Lamb Ragu Filling
4 Tbl Olive Oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 lb ground lamb
1 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp cumin
? tsp red pepper flakes
1 tbl salt
2 large cloves garlic, minced
2 tsp. minced fresh rosemary
1/2 cup Red wine
3 Tbl tomato paste
2 cups (12 oz.) canned plum tomatoes, with juice
1/4 lb. (125 g.) feta cheese
4 oz Artichoke hearts
6 ounce Black olives
3 Tbl chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Kosher salt for cooking pasta
12 ounces Orzo pasta
1 cup b?chamel sauce (recipe follows)
Egg wash
 

Pairing with lamb there are many ways you can roll. A nice Bordeaux, if you like Italian, a nice Brunello but what really works for me is Syrah. There are many different styles of Syrah in the world. Nothing beats going back to the source - the northern Rhone. Now if you can afford a C?te-R?tie there is nothing better. The next best thing is a nice Saint-Joseph.

Saint-Joseph lies just south of Cote-R?tie and just like it's more famous neighbor the wines are syrah driven wines with many being made from 100% Syrah. Saint Joseph was originally a single vineyard that was named for the patron saint of scorned husbands and the earliest records go back to 1668. Long a favorite of the French court it was particularly favored by King Louis XII. Surprisingly it did not gain AOC status until 1956.

Christophe Semanska took the reins of Chateau de Montlys and is now bottling the wines under his own name. Every year these wines improve as his confidence and skills develop, (this is a winery to watch). The wine is sourced from Malleval, in the Northern part of the Appellation, is made from 30 year plus plantings of Syrah.
   
Christophe Semaska Saint- Joseph 2011 $19.99 (regular $39.99)

This is an earthy full bodied Syrah with nice floral and herbal qualities, hints of olive and licorice with a wonderful savory/ umami quality that give the wine depth and structure. Delicious.

"A blend of 100% Syrah that spent 18 months in 20% new French oak, it offers a meaty, olive, leather and bacon fat-styled perfume that flows to a medium to full-bodied, rich and layered feel on the palate. I love the mid-palate and it has impressive focus and length through the finish. Enjoy this superb effort over the coming 7-8 years." 92 Points Wine Advocate , Jeb Dunnuck

This is awesome wine and recieved the 92 pt score based on a $40 price which compared to Rotie is a steal, at $19.99? Well, it's almost a sin.
 Have a Happy Easter and Gut Yomtov!
We hope you enjoy the recipe and find time to share some good food and wine with some friends and loved ones.

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Lenny's Paella Recipe

Paella Valencia Mixta
Serves 12

Ingredients:

¼      Cup                      Olive oil
8       ounces                 Chicken thigh, Boneless skinless
4       Ounces                Chorizo (about 2 Links)
1       Tblsp                   Pimento de la Vera
1       Pound                  uncooked shrimp, peeled and deveined
1       pound                  the freshest fish available
8       ounces                 Mussels, de-bearded and cleaned
2       ounces                 Sardines
¼      cup                       sherry

2       cups                     Bomba or Paella Rice
1                                    Yellow Onion, diced
½                                   Pasilla Pepper, diced
1                                    Red Pepper, diced
3       cups                     Broth (vegetable, chicken or fish)
                                      Water, as needed
                   
1       ea                         Bay Leaf
½      Tsp                      Red Pepper Flakes
                                      Salt and Pepper
1       Pinch                   Saffron

1       Medium              Tomato, diced
8       Ounces                green beans, Fava beans or peas
                                     
1       ea                        Roasted pepper
                                      Chopped Parsley




1.    In a large bowl combine some of the olive oil, chicken, Pimenton de la vera, salt and pepper
2.    Place large paella pan or similar pan over medium heat add remaining olive oil add chorizo and chicken to brown. When mostly cooked remove to a bowl and cover.
3.    Add shrimp, mussels and seafood stir to brown add sherry and cover to steam.
4.    Remove from pan and cover
5.    Add rice stir to coat
6.    Add onions and peppers and sauté until translucent
7.    Add enough broth just to cover and simmer
8.    Add bay leaf, pepper flakes and saffron
Add broth as needed, stirring occasionally
9.    When rice is almost done add tomato and vegetables
10.                       Add meat and seafood to reheat

garnish with roasted red pepper and chopped parsley