Saturday, February 28, 2015

Tuna Agridolce with Sicilian Nero D'Avola

The cuisine of Sicily is a reflection of not just the bounty of the Mediterranean but of the thousands of years of history of the Island. Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Moor, Norman, Catalan, Spaniard - all the great powers of antiquity have left their mark in the culture, language, people and cuisine. Although Sicily shares much in common with Italian cuisine, the food also has been greatly influenced by Greek, Spanish French and Arab influences. 
Tuna with Sweet and Sour Onions (Tonno Scottato con Cipolle agridolce)
Today's dish - Sicilian Style Tuna with Sweet and Sour Onions (Tonno Scottato con Cipolle agridolce) is an almost quintessential Sicilian dish. Fresh Tuna from the sea, Lentils of the near east scented with lemon and cinnamon, and the sweet and sour onions sweetened with honey and raisins then finished with Spanish Sherry Vinegar.  
 
Ingredients:

1 pound Tuna Steak 1-inch thick, cut into 3 or 4
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbl Olive Oil
2 Onions Julienne
1 Tbl Sherry Vinegar
1 tsp Honey
4 sun dried tomatoes, finely diced
2 Tbl raisins or currants
1 Tbl Mint Leaves
Salt
¼ tsp red pepper flakes
1 cup Water

2 cups Cooked French Lentils
½ tsp cinnamon
salt and pepper
Olive oil
Lemon juice

There is a lot going with this dish. A wine of substance is needed but care must be taken not to overwhelm the Tuna. A Sicilian Nero D'avola would have the right balance of minerality, fruit and acid. One in particular comes to mind.

2012 Tasca D'Almerita Regaleali Nero d'Avola Siclia $12.99 
One of the first Nero D'Avolas introduce to the American Market, "Lots of black cherry and stone character on the nose. Full body, dried fruit and minerally undertone. Balanced and delicious. 10/13/14 - 90 points James Suckling

For more than half a century, the Tasca d'Almeritas have been among Sicily's greatest ambassadors, one of a handful of aristocratic families who have thrived in wine. Since the 1800's the families rural base has been Regaleali, today a 1200 acre estate in the heart of Sicily. After World War II Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Amerita was one of the few to focus on quality winemaking.

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Bang Bang Chicken and Schloss Schönborn Kabinett “Pfaffenberg” Rheingau

Gong Hey Fat Choy!

The Chinese New Year has many traditions but, not surprising, my favorite is the Dinner. The New Year's Eve dinner is probably the most important dinner for the family. It’s kind of like thanksgiving dinner; where traditions prevail and families come together sometimes from miles around. During dinner whole fish is always served to symbolize togetherness, shrimp for abundance, long noodles for long life, chicken for wealth, buns and pot stickers for good luck. The table will set with bowls of oranges and tangerines for wealth and good fortune and apples for peace.

Once a number of years ago I invited to a friend’s families house for New Years dinner. An privilege I didn’t want to take lightly. Oh and it was a potluck! So I wanted to make something that would travel well and would be easy for me to make. So I brought my version of Bang Bang Ji Si (棒棒), or Bang Bang Chicken. I love this dish- its easy, delicious and I just like to say Bang Bang.

This dish is from Leshan, a town in Sichuan region that is well known for its quality chicken. It is said that name comes from cooks who would use the back of a cleaver to smash the chicken meat to break the fibers, so that it would be easier to shred. The sauce can be made ahead and this is a particularly great way of using leftover cooked chicken.


Pairing with a spicy Szechuan style chicken dish like this can be a precarious endeavor. But there is one wine that will not only pair well with spiciness of the dish but the rest of the dinner as well: Riesling. Riesling is generally lighter and lower in alcohol, German Rieslings in particular (Kabinett especially) are higher in acid, making these wines very food friendly, widely versatile and particularly suited for the style of the cuisines of China and Asia.

2012 Schloss Schönborn Kabinett “Pfaffenberg” Rheingau  $24.99 $19.99
91 pts Wine Spectator - This features a concentrated ripeness to the dried apricot, pear and lemon curd flavors. Notes of butterscotch and honey lead to hints of white chocolate on the juicy finish. A rich and expressive style. Drink now through 2020.

Schloss Schönborn is the oldest estate in Germany (1349) and one of the oldest in the world, continuously owned by the same family, (27 generations). For over 660 years the Schönborn’s have practiced sustainable vineyard practices, in parallel with a philosophy of producing great wines. The estate owns over 50 hectares (125 acres), of vineyards throughout the Rheingau.  It is the only estate in the region with 38 single vineyard holdings and is a founding member of the Rheingau VDP!

Schloss Schönborn‘s Pfaffenbergis a Monopole or single vineyard wine. Pfaffenberg just may be the most famous Erste Lage (German equivalent of First Growth)-classified site in the Rheingau. The Pfaffenberg is truly a classic wine!


 Bang Bang Chicken - Bang Bang Ji (棒棒)

Ingredients:

Salad
1 pound boneless skinless chicken breasts
1 English cucumber, cut into matchstick-size strips
6 scallions, Sliced thinly
1 each Red pepper, Julienne
1 teaspoon roasted Sichuan peppercorn

Dressing
2 tablespoons sesame seed paste
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 - 2 tablespoons hot chili oil, or 1 - 2 teaspoons chili paste

Optional garnish: toasted sesame seeds, reserved scallion julienne

Directions:
1) Bring a pot of water to a boil. Cook chicken in water for 10 minutes, or until cooked through. Drain. When cool enough to handle, whack chicken with a rolling pin until it can easily be pulled apart with your fingers.
2) Peel cucumber, and cut into matchstick-size strips. Julienne Scallions and red pepper.
3) Whisk sesame seed paste, soy sauce, black vinegar, sesame oil, sugar and hot chili oil or chili flakes together in a small bowl.
4) Arrange cucumber matchsticks and six shredded scallions on a serving plate. Place chicken on top. Sprinkle with Sichuan peppercorns and pour sauce over salad. Garnish with reserved scallion shreds. Yield: 4 servings.

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Chicken Saltimbocca and Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune "Clos de la Mousse"

One of my all time favorite dishes is Chicken Saltimbocca, elegant as it is simple and delicious it is a perfect dish for a intimate dinner party.  
Chicken Saltimbocca
Every time I make this dish I wonder why I don't make it more often. Hands downs one of the best returns on investment of almost any recipe I have in my repertoire. Heady with scents of sage and savory prosciutto, at once homey and elegant. 
Ingredients:

4 boneless, skinless chicken cutlets
fine sea salt
ground black pepper
8 thin slices prosciutto
8 sage leaves, more for garnish
3/4 cup flour
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 tbl Shallot, minced

8 oz pasta
3 Tbl Italian parsley, Chopped
2 Tbl Butter
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Salt and pepper
Asparagus, blanched
 
 Printable Recipe and Instructions
When it comes to pairing saltimbocca, a traditional white from Northern Italy would work well- Pinot Grigio, Soave or Orvieto or a northern Red - Dolcetto, Barbera or Nebbiolo. But my favorite pairing with this dish is a nice red burgundy the simplicity of the dish allows the complexity of the burgundy to shine. And nothing says I love more than Cru Burgundy. 

All burgundy is not created equal. Most burgundy is made by and for négociant houses from many individually owned parcels, cut and pasted together to make collage wines, many delicious and some profound. There are a relatively few monopole wines from burgundy. A monopole ("monopoly" in French) is an area controlled by a single winery usually a single vineyard. The Clos de la Mousse is a walled Premier Cru climat vineyard just outside the town of Beaune itself located toward Pommard where the soils are very shallow, around 25mm deep. The vines here are planted north to south rather than the orthodox east to west.

To quote Robert Parker about Bouchard, "This is one of the wealthiest firms in France, as well as the largest landowner of premier and grand crus in Burgundy. Paul Bouchard and his son Jean-Francois continue to turn out their finest wines since the forties and fifties. The wines are deeper-colored and noticeably more concentrated."
 
I had the opportunity to taste this wine with Luc Bouchard, 3 months before release. The wine is medium bodied, vibrant, balanced with plenty of stuffing for the long haul. Scented with citrus zest and layers of red fruit, lithe and elegant alive and fine.

2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune "Clos de la Mousse"  $56.99
 "A pure, elegant and airy nose features wisps of both red and dark pinot fruit along with subtle earth notes that are set off by relatively generous wood. There is excellent concentration and intensity to the middle weight plus flavors that possess excellent power and drive, all wrapped in a serious, balanced and strikingly persistent finish. This is a big Beaune with solid minerality and phenolic maturity and one to consider."
92 Pts Allen Meadows, Burghound  

92 Tanzer 91 Advocate

Saturday, February 7, 2015

Slow New York Steak and Garlic Shrimp with Rose Champagne

There are plenty of romantic dinners for two that you can cook - Rack of Lamb, Seafood Fettuccine, Osso Buco, or maybe Beef Wellington.  Some heed the words of Omar Khayyam and make do with simple plates of cheese, salumi, "a Jug of Wine, a Loaf of Bread--and Thou..."  But what about good ol' fashioned Surf and Turf? Steak and Lobster, Tenderloin and Scallops, Rib Eye and Shrimp - creamy mashed potatoes, green beans add a simple salad and you have a great little dinner for two without much stress. Oh, and don't forget the oysters on the half shell.

What to drink? Well you could go with a nice Pinot Noir, either Bourgogne or Willamette. But for me, Rosé Champagne is the finest answer here. A good quality Rosé Sparkling made with a good helping Pinot Noir is just about as perfect as perfect gets.

There are many great sparkling Rose available, Treveri Rosé ($16.99) 90 WS which is a great local option. Argyle Brut Rosé 2010 ($43.99) 91 WS or Scharffenberger Brut Rosé ($22.99) 90 WS. But, a special night with special someone...you need something special.    
Champagne Duval Leroy Brut Rosé $51.99Duval Leroy Brut Rose
Duval-Leroy is one of favorite Champagne houses. Large enough o produce consistent quality wines, yet small enough to make wines that express of place and personality. "With a fine bead and delicate, mouthwatering acidity, this is a subtle, balanced rosé, offering a smoky, mineral-tinged base note and hints of pastry dough, dried cherry, wild strawberry and grapefruit zest."
92 Points Wine Spectator

The house of Duval-Leroy has been a family owned business since 1859, since Edouard Leroy, a wine trader from the town of Villers-Franqueux, formed a partnership with Jules Duval, a grape-grower and winemaker from Vertus. The two families joined together, not just in business, when a wedding, between Jules's son, Henri, and Edouard's daughter, Louise Eugénie consummated the partnership. The house is one of the largest independent landholders in Champagne with almost 500 acres planted to vines. Today, the company is overseen by Carol Duval-Leroy with wine production headed by Sandrine Logette-Jardin. 

Champagne and red meat? Pinot Noir is the varietal that drives the pairing here, Rosé Champagne is still substantial enough to hold up to the steak with the effervescence helping to cut through the fat and of course playing well with the shrimp. A little lower alcohol helps; higher acidity is important and makes sparkling a perfect default wine, when in doubt? Drink Champagne! 
Slow NY Steak with Garlic Shrimp 

This method is a surefire way to make a perfect steak. Using a thicker cut of steak we are going to start in the oven and finish on the stove top. While the steak is resting we will whip up the shrimp in a garlic butter sauce. Served with a nice bottle of bubbles and voila! 
INGREDIENTS:

*Instant Read Thermometer, Cast Iron Pan

1 ½ lb - 2 lb Steak, NY or Rib Eye (1 ½" to 2" thick)
kosher salt
fresh ground pepper
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

***** Shrimp and butter Sauce
Olive oil
6  Ounces Shrimp, peeled de-veined
1  tsp Red Pepper Flakes
1 Tblsp Fresh Garlic chopped
1 ounce Dry Sherry
1 Tsp Sherry Vinegar
1 tsp fresh Tarragon
Salt to taste
½ Cup Tomato Diced
2 Tblsp Butter
 Printable Recipe and Instructions
We hope you enjoy the recipe and find time to share some food and wine with some friends and loved ones.

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Smoked Chicken Salad and NW Wine Academy Barrel Fermented Chardonnay

There are many misunderstood and maligned grapes out in the world of wine – Gewürztraminer, Gamay and Riesling are a few that come to mind. But no wine has suffered the slings and arrows as much as Chardonnay. I feel that many people blame the grape, when the problem is mass produced overly oaked (read oak chips and dust) wines that flooded the market many years ago. Chardonnay is the grape of Mersault and Montrachet, the great grape of burgundy and it makes some of the most profound wine all around the world.

Today, I have pleasure of presenting the Northwest Wine Academy at South Seattle College 2013 Chardonnay. (Full disclosure I am an instructor at the school, so yes I am biased.) The Northwest Wine Academy is the only college level program offering professional wine courses in the Puget Sound Region. The school offers a two year Associate of Arts degrees in Viticulture and Enology, as well as Degrees in Food and Wine Pairing, Winemaking, and Wine Marketing and Sales.

The 2013 Chardonnay was sourced from Wyckoff Vineyard and fermented in new French Oak barrels with partial malolactic fermentation and stirred on the lees for three months. Complex, with just a hint of oak, the wine reveals bright, fruit-forward aromas – melon, lemon, and pear. It delivers notes of spice, sea salt, and minerality with a creamy mouth feel. This is an excellent example of the potential of Chardonnay in Washington State. The Schools Chardonnay has received Gold and Double Gold Medals from the Seattle Wine Awards in years past.

This wine would be an excellent choice with double cream cheese, like Delice de Bourgogne or Kurtwood Farms Dinah’s. The toasty oak makes this wine a perfect pair for roasted, grilled, smoked  birds like chicken and turkey.  This wine pairs with a range of dishes from lighter salads to seafood and cream sauces.

Now, I am pairing this with a Smoked Chicken and Hazelnut Salad with pears and Mesclun greens.

Why this pairing works: The Toasted hazelnuts echo the toast of the new French barrel, the pears echo a note of pear in the wine, the body and weight of the two are balanced. The chardonnay makes for a lovely bridge with fresh acidity and a delicate minerality that is balanced by a creamy finish.

 



Smoked Chicken and Hazelnut Salad
Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 each Smoked Chicken 2-2 ½ lb
2 each Ripe pears
1Pound Mixed Greens
4 ounce Roasted Hazelnuts
4-6 ounces Hazelnut dressing
1 each yellow pepper, Julienne

**********Vinaigrette

¼ Cup Cider Vinegar
1 each shallot minced
2 tsp Honey
1 tsp Dijon Mustard
¾ cup Olive Oil
¼ cup Hazelnut Oil
1 Tbl Tarragon chopped
Salt and pepper

1.     In bowl combine all ingredients for dressing and mix well
2.     for salad de-bone chicken and shred into little strips. Set aside
3.     roast hazelnuts in warm 275 – 300 degree oven for 7- 10 minutes
4.     slice pears and put into large bowl add greens and dressing
5.     toss salad
6.     garnish with chicken and hazelnuts